• Our 1979 Tollycraft 30 Sedan Forward Cabin Remodel Project

    When we first got our boat the v-berth had some moisture issues due to the anchor locker bulkhead not being sealed to the hull. It was made of unsealed plywood that was screwed into blocks at the top and bottom. You can see that there is actually an inch or so space between the bulkhead and the sides of the hull. This is an original Tollycraft thing that did not make a lot of sense. It seems uncharacteristic of the boats overall quality but there it is just the same.

    When I removed the old bulkhead I discovered a slice of the original wallpaper under a moulding. This is a sample of that original wallpaper from 1979. It's so classic disco that I just had to save it!

    This thread will look at the different steps taken to complete our forward cabin remodel.

    Step 1 - Tabbing in the new bulkhead.

    Before I started I decided to make the anchor locker little bigger to allow the chain to lay in nicer.
    I laid 2x2 lumber on top of the old bulkhead to act as a spacer and made a new cardboard template to fit.
    I transfered the template onto a piece of 1/2" plywood and after much back and forth tweaking I had a good fit.
    With the old bulkhead removed you can see the pencil line on the hull where the new bulkhead will attach.
    I also used this opportunity to reseal the otherwise hard to get at deck fittings above.
    First off, I am not a fibreglass guy and haven't achieved great results in the past, but with good coaching from Peter at our local Industrial Plastics and Paint store, I am pretty happy with the result.
    All of the fibreglass work is done on the inside of the locker.
    I sanded all of the mating surfaces (up to my pencil line) down to clean fibreglass with a 60 grit sanding disc.
    Before installation I encapsulated the inside of the new bulkhead with a layer of 1 oz mat and resin.
    I allowed it to cure, sanded the edges smooth and sanded the mating surfaces with 60 grit.
    With the new bulkhead temporarily attached from the outside I started filling with long strand fibreglass bondo.
    The old setup had the locker draining to the bilge. This does not fit in with my plan for a dry bilge so I used the old hole to run a conduit for a raw water wash-down and filled the rest.
    I will drill a 1/2" hole at the bottom of each side later and cover them on the outside with small clamshells to drain the locker to the outside.
    One of the problems I had in the past was trying to get the fibreglass mat to take hold in a sharp corner.
    With my new found information that all corners need to be rounded I made a cheesy tool by cutting a piece of 1/4" plywood with a 1 1/2" hole saw.
    I sanded the edges of the disc it created and used it to make a rounded inside corner with the filler. It worked pretty well.
    My next new found information was to have all of my fibreglass mat pre cut and ready.
    Small batches of resin pre-poured (not catalyzed) and ready
    I worked in small areas by brushing on the resin, laying on the mat and rolling it out until saturated.
    This is the bottom with a couple of layers of 1 oz mat wetted in with resin
    Sides tabbed in with a couple layers of 1 oz mat and resin.
    Newly tabbed in bulkhead from the cabin side. Job went smoother than expected.

    I worked patiently and steadily and for the first time I did not end up with fibreglass strands and resin on everything within a ten foot radius. Yay!

    Next step, paint......
    greenghost39 and Keysdoctor like this.


    This article was originally published in forum thread: Our 1979 Tollycraft 30 Sedan Forward Cabin Remodel Project started by Roger,
    To Join The Discussion and View the Original post Click Here.


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