• Silverton 34C Teak Refinish

    So as with the Cruisers Inc, I am redoing the cockpit teak on the Silverton. There is a bunch more that will need to be done in the future (flybridge steps, cockpit ladder steps, swim platform inserts, pulpit inserts, etc...) but for the time being I was able to remove and bring the small amount of trim work home and get started. Unlike the other boat, which the previous teak coating had all but disappeared, on this trim, there was a lot of varnish still attached. This proved to be a lot more work than I expected.


    Here is the removed trim as it was on the boat:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim001.jpg
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim002.jpg

    After removal, I grabbed the palm sander, and 120 grit paper. I took a small piece of teak and started sanding. After 10-15 minutes I had barely broken through to fresh wood over about an inch worth of trim. Had I continued at this rate, I would still be on that first piece. A little online research lead me to Citristrip. It is supposed to be non harmful, not foul smelling, and won't burn your skin off if contact is made. I decided to give it a try at under $8.00 for a can.

    Citristrip:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim003.jpg

    I applied it as indicated, waited an hour (can says 30 minutes to 24 hours) and took a look. The varnish had bubbled, but only the first layer or so.

    Citristrip in action:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim004.jpg

    I decided to spray the teak again, cover it good to keep the moisture in, and let it sit over night. After doing so, the next night the varnish was bubbled up very nicely. A plastic scraper and some paper towels and I was satisfied with how the stripper worked.

    Here is the stripped wood prior to any sanding:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim005.jpg

    The next step was to clean the stripper and potentially remove even more varnish. I took a brass brush, and some acetone and began to scrub each piece. This not only did take the stripper residue off, it also helped clean some of the blackened teak up.

    Here is my acetone/brush:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim006.jpg

    Here we see the teak after a scrubbing of acetone:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim007.jpg

    The final effort was some 100 grit paper on the palm sander. It still took a bit of sanding to get the teak looking good, and I may even go at it a bit more. I wrestled with (still am) the idea of sending the finish face of the teak through a planer, to take off a very small amount of wood, and give me a dead flat surface and good clean wood. If I can get this done prior to me Epoxy showing up it might still happen.

    Here we see the sanded teak, with and without a flash:
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim009.jpg
    http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...4C/Trim010.jpg

    As far as finishing the teak off, on the last boat I used Cetol. 2 (or 3, I forget) coats of color and a lot of coats of clear. I was happy with the look, but knowing I intend to add more teak on this boat, I wanted something a little "better". I have on order Smith's CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer). A couple of coats of the epoxy should seal the wood up and create a base. On top of this will be applied a good 8-10 coats of Epiphanes "Wood Finish Gloss". I have already begun some test pieces (Teak and Mahogony) and am liking how this stuff lays down and looks.

    I will update the thread here as I progress. Varnish is a long process and 99% of it is waiting. The results however should look very nice at the dock.
    NCSUSailor likes this.

     

    This article was originally published in forum thread: Silverton 34C Teak Refinish started by 25thmustang,
    To Join The Discussion and View the Original post Click Here.

     

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