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twin diesel battery wiring diagram.

Marine Electrical

Section - Hi.all. Trying to get to grips with the electrics on siesta, need the starting and ...
   
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  1. #1
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    Default twin diesel battery wiring diagram.

    Hi.all. Trying to get to grips with the electrics on siesta, need the starting and charging system rewiring.seems every man and his dog has had a go at it judging by the state of it,so the only remedy is to rip out the old and replace with a complete rewire.So this is what i have. Twin perkins 4107 diesels fitted with lucas A127 altenators,70amp, twin slit charge diode isolators, one battery selector,one battery on off. This is what i want. A dedicated battery for each engine. A bank of 3 service batterys, and a battery for the windlass up forrard. with the ability to start each engine with any of the batterys if thats possible. Regards. Alan.

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    Alan what you are asking for is certainly possible. It sounds like you have already began step 1 of determining what you want the electrical system to do. If you haven't already done this I would suggest at a minimum start a notebook to jot down all of the information as you go along, additionally begin drawing your own wiring diagram as you go.

    There are a few things that need to be answered up front that will determine how you wire the system. I am not familiar with the A127 alternators, do they have external voltage regulators?

    The reason I ask is that diode isolators rob you of some of your charging current which increases charge time on the batteries and in worst case scenarios can result in the battery not reaching full charge. However, if your alternators have an external voltage regulator, the sense line for it can be placed downstream of the isolator and this will cause the alternator to put out more to compensate for the isolator loss.

    Many people keep the isolators regardless of external voltage regulation or not since they make designing a system easier, this will be a choice that you will have to make.


    Here is a good link to get you started Batteries and The Maze! Understanding Your Boats DC Electrical System. - BoatingHowTo.com

    I started trying to draw something up for you tonight but ran out of time. Some of our electrical guru's may already have something that fits the bill, if not I will try again tomorrow.

    timg
    ~ on the hook ~

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    Hi Timg. First of all many thanks for your speedy reply. The ucas A127 is internaly regulated,and is probably the most common atenator sold in this country, which makes for easy replacement. I will be the first to agree that I am no expert,but I do have a rudimentry understanding of electricity.Having read your article battery maze ,a very informative piece I may add, I was drawn to the last but one diagram. i.e. one altenator/ isolator/ three batterys/ battery selector/ and battery on-off. Could this set-up be used on each individual engine. Thus giving me 6 batterys, one dedicated battery for each engine, a battery for the windlass, and the remaining 3 to be parralelled for house. Look foward to your reply. Regards. Alan.

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    Okay I managed to put something together but did not have time to thoroughly check it for mistakes. This is a bit more complex than I like, I am a proponent of the KISS principle (keep it simple stupid) since it eliminates the chance of error and tends to be less expensive.


    2-eng-dedicated-batts.gif

    For normal operation with this setup the port selector would remain in position 1 and starboard would remain in position 2, the auxiliary selector would be in the OFF position.

    Port engine starts with port battery, stbd with stbd battery.

    For charging purposes a 2 input 3 output isolator is used with an ACR to charge windlass battery. A 3 bank battery charger also charges the batts and the windlass batt through the ACR.

    HOWEVER, after drawing the schematic I would purchase a 2 input 4 output isolator, search google for 4 bank marine battery isolator. It looks like they have them now that don't experience voltage loss as well. I would also purchase a 4 bank battery charger. If you did that you could eliminate the ACR from the system.

    That setup will allow any battery to start either engine.

    Start Selector 1 in position 2 ties port engine to auxiliary feed, any battery connected to the aux feed then can start port engine. If start selector 1 is in both position then start bat 1 and the aux feed are paralleled.

    If all selectors are in the both position, then all batteries are paralleled for starting!!!

    Here is a graphic with 4 bank isolator and 4 bank charger without the ACR.2-eng-dedicated-batts-noacr.gif

    Hopefully someone else has an idea that may be a bit simpler.
    Last edited by TimG; September 26th, 2012 at 03:37.
    ~ on the hook ~

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    Hey Alan. Welcome aboard. I see that you want to be able to start the engines with all batteries but I wonder if the windlass battery would be an effective start battery with it being so far away. You would have to run some pretty big cable to carry the load of the starter motor. If the windlass battery was taken out of the starting circuit you could charge it via ACR or battery charger and would only need wire sufficient to carry the 70 amps that the alternator will send it. You already have three battery banks able to start your engines anyway. Just a thought.

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    I agree with Roger, for the added cost I would leave the windlass battery out of the equation as well, unless it is located in the engine room with all of the others.
    ~ on the hook ~

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    First of all appologies for not replying sooner.got a very nasty virus of you tube which locked my laptop up, its now at the menders being formated and am now using a loan model.Anyway looking at the diagram it seems awfully complicated not to mention expensive. Thank you roger for your point about the windlass battery,as its 24ft away from the nearest altenator I should imagine that its best to leave it out. After closer examination I have discovered that siesta is fitted with a adverc battery management system, and a strange object which I have been informed is a regulater for a wind charger.( rutland 503). I think the best course of action would be to post some photos of the existing wiring then see what can be done from there.Once again thanks TimG for your time and effort.

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    no problem
    ~ on the hook ~

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    JAT
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    Alan, if you have an older boat...which I suspect you do with Perkins 4107/4108's ..... If you are redoing electrical wiring and if the boat has an old, old ferro resonant charger in the wiring mix....and you remove it....there will be some strange things happen.

    Our boat has a pair of Perkins 6.354's...that are over 30 years old...and so was the original charger...never used, but it was still in the wiring system. I removed it....and then the fun started. Seems the old charger being something proof positive of old technology....being very different than today....there were a number of wires that related to the engine alternators that ran into its wiring scheme...

    When I disconnected all of those wires my voltmeters died....and my tachometers acted up.... Seems the wiring that joined to the old charger were "bridges" or "sensing wires"...that carried current or signal all the time. Took a while but once I figured out what happened and put the right jumpers in the right places....all worked again.

    Never thought a battery charger would be wired like that!!

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    Good point JAT, hopefully you took good notes on the jumpers that you had to take care of. I am sure someone else will have a similar problem and that information would likely save them a lot of time. Do you have a diagram of what you had to do?
    ~ on the hook ~

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