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Blower not working at toggle swith

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Section - 2005 tahoe q6 5.0 blower motor wont turn on. Had off few months ago, but ...
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  1. #1
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    2005 tahoe q6
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    Default Blower not working at toggle swith

    2005 tahoe q6 5.0 blower motor wont turn on. Had off few months ago, but kept messing with wires at toggle switch and started working again. Having same issue. Was running and just quit. Messed with wires, but can't get to come on.

    Replaced toggle switch still won't work. Checked with tester light. Have connection at toggle switch. Tested at motor where connectors is. Lights up light on both sides of connectors at blower motor.

    So thought blower motor was bad. Ran hot lead from battery to blower and came on like a champ.

    I am totally confused and lost as to where issue is.

  2. #2
    TimG's Avatar
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    Boat's Name : "WooHoo"
    1986 Cruisers Elegante 297
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    Well you have done all the proper steps, setting aside the possibility that the new toggle is bad as well (been there before) or the blower is bad (can be intermittent) the only thing I can think of is that you have a possible grounding issue (corroded etc) or a short in the wiring (could be anywhere).

    Not knowing the exact layout I would suspect maybe a short or loose connection near where you were able to mess with the wires and get it to work.

    This is gonna be a touch one, but I would try two things:
    1. turn toggle on and start messing with wires again (all adjacent ones as well) or
    2. do a continuity check....get a long piece of spare wire (long enough to reach the blower and the toggle) connect one end of the spare wire to the hot leg of wire at the blower (you are doing this to extend the length of the wire so you can reach BOTH ends of the wire with a multimeter) set your meter to ohms and put one lead on the hot at the toggle and the other lead on the end of the spare wire (wire you attached to the hot at motor). You should see a zero or near zero reading indicating little to no resistance, keep the leads attached and wiggle the wires to see if the reading changes.

    Do the same steps in #2 above with the ground wire. If you see the resistance change you have found your bad wire.
    ~ on the hook ~

  3. #3
    Cap'n Ray's Avatar
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    Boat's Name : Bali Haíi
    1988 Carver 3207
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    +1 for everything Tim said! I have seen several connectors with bad crimps exhibit the exact same symptoms... cut both ends off and re-terminate. I'm soldering and heat-shrinking all the connectors on our boat as I repair/ replace them. It takes just a tiny bit longer and costs a few cents more per connection but the end result is nearly zero concern for poor connections. Good luck- let us know if you find something obvious!

  4. #4
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    Home Port : Lake Ontario
    1962 Chris Craft Roamer Riviera
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    ABYC requires that all your crimps be mechanically crimped not soldered , i've always found a soldered crimp to be superior, i guess a cold solder wouldnt be - maybe thats what ABYC is more concerned about. You're insurance company will certainly be happy to point out any non-compliance though if something goes down and they note soldered crimps . I crimp mechanically now and solder before the shrink - takes a bit longer but resolves the nit picking...

  5. #5
    Cap'n Ray's Avatar
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    Boat's Name : Bali Haíi
    1988 Carver 3207
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    I tin the wire, insert and crimp as usual, then solder. Covered with the glue-lined heat shrink almost guarantees no failure. Itís a near-perfect electrical connection that will not suffer from increasing resistance due to corrosion. It is a bit Ďoverkillí but if Iím gonna take the time to crimp and shrink it- why not be SURE the connection isnít going to degrade inside? Iíll never recover my investment- but itís peace of mind for me- I KNOW the terminations are sound.

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