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Article: Refinishing Your Boat's Cabinet Doors - Applying New Veneer

Marine Structural

Section - Here is my best attempt at a write up on this procedure. Here we have ...
   
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  1. #1
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    1984 Silverton 34C
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    Default Article: Refinishing Your Boat's Cabinet Doors - Applying New Veneer

    Here is my best attempt at a write up on this procedure.

    Here we have the subject cabinet door. The style and rail frame is solid teak (?). The center panel is a mahogany ply, with laminate on the front face.








    Instead of prepping the plastic laminate, I decided it was easier to reverse the plywood and put my new ribbon striped veneer over that. The door comes apart and the panel is removed.





    Then we grab two sheets of ribbon striped sapele veneer.





    The veneer is then layed on the plywood panel and marked to be cut (quicker than doing it with rulers or tape measure).





    Once trimmed, the center of the panel is located and each wood veneer edge is positioned to align at the center. At this point I used painters tape and tightly taped the veneer to each other. Then the veneer was taped to the panel.









    The veneer is then trimmed to fit.










    The next step is to prep the contact adhesive. This product is a non flammable one, and I chose it specifically because I was doing the work inside my house. The fumes are actually not harsh at all, and of course I ventilate the area and keep it far from anywhere else in the house.









    Next is to lay the veneer out and get it ready for adhesive application.





    One thing I noticed with any adhesive on this veneer, it immediately curls. It actually curls into a complete cylinder if allowed. Knowing this, I prepared by having 4 near full containers ready to weigh the veneer down. *fun fact, my containers were a combination of Cetol Natural Teak Stain, Minwax Wood Polyurethane, Minwax Spar Urethane and Interlux Schooner 96 Varnish* I think I'm obsessed!








    Then adhesive is applied to the panel. Both the veneer and panel required two coats this time.






    The moment of truth arrives. Time to press the veneer onto the panel. I start at the center line, press it in and then roll it out. I don't have the right roller, but have been using a glass candle. It allows me to roll out the correct pressure (75 psi, according to the contact cement) fairly easily.






    A test fit and it looks presentable.





    The frame is pulled back apart and sanded down to get through the original dark stain. Once sanded, it is wiped clean. Normally I would use acetone, but I seem to have run out, so mineral spirits were substituted.









    At this same time, to save brushes, I sanded down my first panel, as well as my second panel.





    All the panels were layed out ready for polyurethane work.






    The first panel was polyurethaned. The frame is not coated because this was previously done with varnish and I do not want to poly over varnish, but will varnish over poly... strange I know, but it makes sense in my mind, due to the hardess of the coatings.










    All the pieces left to dry for the time being.


    Last edited by TimG; December 12th, 2012 at 01:03.
    JAT likes this.
    '84 Silverton 34' T/270s.

  2. #2
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    ben2go's Avatar
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    beautiful.

  3. #3
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    Roger's Avatar
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    Good info. Great result

  4. #4
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    Excellent write up! Thank you.

  5. #5
    JAT
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    Outstanding!!

  6. #6
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    I proudly own an Australian built boat Savage Lancer 26 flybridge Twin inboard Chrysler 318s Twin
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    very nicely done m8

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