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Revamping anchor locker

Marine Structural

Section - Here's the deal! I want to run 375 ft of 1/2" 8-plait rode (soft and ...
   
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  1. #1
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    Default Revamping anchor locker

    Here's the deal! I want to run 375 ft of 1/2" 8-plait rode (soft and pliable stuff) connected to 30 ft. of 1/4" G4 chain across my bow pulpit roller, thru my anchor winch, and down into my locker, which, to say the least, isn't large enough to hold all of it. Meaning, need to increase its size. Naturally, first place I went back to was search and read TimGís article where he had revamped his anchor locker, but doing so, gave rise to a couple questions that are now bouncing around in my head.

    The locker in my Bayliner isnít as detailed as what Timís was. Itís an inverted, triangle shaped retaining wall epoxied into the side walls of the bow and open across the top. At the bottom of the locker, thereís a drain that lets water flow back to the bilge. Iím thinking, remove that wall (Red outline - interior) and replace it with a larger one installed aftward (Yellow outline - interior). Okay, first question: How far back to move it? Working with some math formulas, I believe I came up with the correct dimensions for the locker, but itís subject to scrutiny. Second question: Would the angle of my Baylinerís bow (yellow w/red spots line - exterior) work well to increase the fall of the rode? Third question: Would an external drain drilled thru the hull, as Tim did, be necessary? The Bayliner bow angle has me wondering if it would be too low for such a fitting. Other than these questions, Iíve got nothing else. Not to mention, my brain is hurting from being overworked. LOL
    Attached Thumbnails vberth-2.jpg   bow-no.-2a.jpg  
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  2. #2
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    The only sure fire way of determining if the size will be large enough is to see if it will fit, or see how much you can fit in the current locker and that should help you visualize how much larger it will need to be (likely only a few inches). Keep in mind the fall of the rode changes as you bring in line, as the rope builds up in the locker, the stack gets higher and closer to the bottom of the windlass....ideally you want this distance as large as possible so there is more weight pulling the rode down (that weight is only the weight of the line from the bottom of the windlass to the top of the pile). So you can see you could have a huge locker (very wide but not deep) that is not as good as a smaller deeper locker.

    As far as the fall of the rode is concerned, the answer to your question is yes and no. In a perfect world you would move your windlass back further so the rode would fall straight toward the deepest part, but in this case you likely won't do that....However even having the added depth with the rode falling slightly forward of that should still work fine and the angle of the bow will help the rope fall aft as it stacks up.
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  3. #3
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    Thanx Tim. As always, appreciate your input.

    Okay, the rode is brand new 8-plait. I presume then, that in order to see how it falls and how much will fit, it should be saturated wet before loading it thru the windlass. Yes?

    As for moving the windlass further back, you are correct, that wonít happen. Simply because (as you can see in the photo), the winch is bolted onto the rear of the bow pulpit.

    And so, once all that is done, there will be one last thing to consider as part of the planning process: How far back and how close to the waterline Iíll be able to install a new locker drain. Iíve read where people installed drains and when under power and/or in large waves, water would feed into and flood the locker well . . . even with a clam shell cover. Not cool!!!

    Attached Thumbnails 00e0e_4mmnxa5pabp_600x450.jpg  
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    If as u mentioned it already drained to the bilge you could keep that method, otherwise you want the drain as far aft in the locker as possible since most boats sit a bit bow high and you can slope the bottom slightly. As far as how high, it will have to be at the bottom of the locker to be effective.

    the only way to know if it will be too low is to load your boat up nice and heavy and observe the water flow around the bow. What you want to watch out for is the water flow at various speeds, then watch after a quick stop as boat comes off plane. Keep in mind this drain hole doesn't need to be large. Also the clam shell can be angled aft.

    an occasional splash can be expected, I'd imagine what happened to those other folks is they mounted the clam shell more vertical right in the path of bows water spray pattern essentially funneling it in.
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    You don't have to wet your rode to test, and you really don't want your locker filled more than about 60% of capacity if possible with everything on board.
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    Okay Tim, I gotta ask! Why no more than 60% capacity?
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    One thing to consider is that your windlass will not actually feed the rode into the locker. The rode basically just falls into the locker off the windlass. This means that the drop point of the rode needs to be large enough to hold all of it.

    You can easily test the capacity of the locker by feeding the rode by hand into the hawse pipe. If you canít just let it fall in your windlass wonít be able to do it either. If your plan is to enlarge the locker Iíd be concerned about the current position of the windlass. Unless the windlass is over the deepest part of the locker enlarging it wonít help the capacity.

    Your plan for moving the bulkhead back to enlarge the locker should work. I did a similar thing on my previous Bayliner 2655. I didnít want to disturb the hull sides so I only extended the centre portion of the locker itself and then added the full bulkhead. Hereís a couple pics of my project.








    If it doesn't work with rope and your boat can take the extra weight, chain lays down way easier. Good luck with it.
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    Okay, Tim and Roger, some results are in. The dry run proved acceptable, for the most part; the 8-plait rode falls well. But as I figured, because of its shortness fore and aft, the locker won't handle all 375 ft of rode and 25 ft of chain. Instead, I’m left with 170 +/- ft needing a place to go. So, moving the bulkhead back will definitely allow the rode to fall more freely.

    Appreciate the pics Roger, but have a couple questions. Any particular reason you didn’t disturb the hull sides? Since it appears that the pics don't show the finished results, how did you attach the new framing; did you use tabs and epoxy to secure everything?
    "The older I get, the better I used to be!"

  9. #9
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    In the first pic you can see the padded bolsters that are attached to the hull through the rub rail. I didn’t want to go that far so I just worked around them. I also saw it as an opportunity to get the speakers out of the anchor locker.

    I attached the extension pieces as well as the bulkhead by tabbing them to the hull with polyester resin and mesh cloth. I got way better at it the second time when I did my Tollycraft but here’s a pic,



    I cut the hull liner and glued it back down.


  10. #10
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    Okay, after seeing the additional pics and reading your explanation, I see how you went about it. Thanx Roger
    "The older I get, the better I used to be!"

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